Istanbul - where East meets West

So, for the 3rd time of trying to get my blog up and running here goes... and I have a couple of days to catch up so it's going to be a bit longer than normal!

28 April 2011

Istanbul is really a city of contrasts. East and West, old and new, Muslim and Christian histories. I arrived at the airport on the 27th after 24 hours of flying and waiting and found a man holding a sign with my name on it. He then pointed me to a shuttle bus driver who could speak no English and they gestured for me to get in the front seat. It was a very interesting ride into the city. They keep to the speed limit, but they just drive and people move out of the way. (Although there were a couple of close calls.)

 It ended up being a bit of a silent tour of Istanbul. Lots of pointing and me taking a few photos in the passenger seat. There is one road in Istanbul that goes through the old city aqueduct. Each lane of the road splits to an arch in the aqueduct. Really amazing how they have allowed the modern world to mould it's way around the old architecture rather than just destroying it. It's rather refreshing to see.

The hostel I'm staying in is clean although small and my room is on the 4th floor - so lots of exercise. The people at the front desk are very helpful.


The tourist district is definitely full of tourists. In the last three days I have met people from Turkey (obviously), Canada, US (different parts), Australia, Ecuador, Argentina, Peru and South Africa to name a few. And I have already been asked why I am not black if I come from Africa (which I really wanted to see for myself if it would happen. Well it did within 24 hour of travelling!)

The mosques are definitely an experience with the call to worship ringing out a number of times a day. It’s rather loud and staged between the different mosques so it almost sounds like they are echoing each other or answering each other. I’m not too sure if it’s supposed to be an echo? Anyone know?
  

Me in the Emperor's Park

The first day I decided to get my bearings a bit and I walked around intending to go to one of the mosques. I got completely distracted when I found the Emperor’s park which is surrounded by an ancient wall. It’s really beautiful and big and full of gardens with tulips and almost pansy type plants. I then found that I was near a geocache and searched surreptitiously for ages at the bottom of a stone wall without trying to draw the attention of the Turkish armed guards.



The park reminded me a lot of the Netherlands because of the number of tulips in flower. 

Tulips came from Turkey



View from the Park near the geocache

The Turkish people are very friendly and many of them will come up to you, ask where you are from, if you are lost and if they can help you. It’s a little overwhelming actually. I duly refused the advances of a number of Turkish men until my camera got a piece of fluff inside the lens which was creating spots on my photos (don’t ask me how) and needed to find a camera repair shop. I was then led around by some Turkish man to the local Kodak shop where the camera went in for repairs. (So here in the story the photo evidence ends). I was lead to a carpet shop to have tea. (It seems to be the way to do business here). After having a 30 min chat with his uncle about South Africa and Turkey I said no to the carpets and left. I was rather surprised to find that I was intact and that my belongings were safe! The Turkish people seem to have a knack of sweet talking you into buying stuff - but the hostel had warned me that this was common.

 

After that I think I had about 7 men try come help me, offer me tea and lead me to their carpet / jewellery shop. I soon discovered that everyone in Turkey seems to be related to everyone else and that they all have an uncle with a carpet shop, a father that owns a café and a sister that works in a jewellery store. By the end of the day I even had an offer of a romantic dinner with one of my fan club. I decided to retreat to the relative safety of the hostel and went out to dinner with a Canadian couple instead much to my tag on's disappointment. 

29 April 2011

Yesterday morning I met another couple who were living in London but Steve was from South Africa and Ely was from Peru. We went touring all over the city together and saw a number of the famous sights.

 

Inside the Blue Mosque



Outside the Blue Mosque

The Blue Mosque:

There are hundreds of stunning blue tiles inside, some dating back to about 17th centuary or more. It was huge with a number of domed ceilings. But there was also a teaming throng of tourists who all had to take off their shoes at the door. The result is that the place smelt rather like feet inside. But it was worth it though!

Outside Hagia Sophia with Ely

                      Hagia Sophia Museum: 

Across the square is the Hagia Sophia which was a church, then a mosque and is now a museum. This for me was probably the highlight of the trip so far. I could be a little off is dates so please note that all that follows is approximate. It was originally built in 400AD out of wood. Then burned down. Then rebuilt, then destroyed when the city was taken, then rebuilt for a third time and that is what stands today.

When it became a mosque, the Christian images were plastered over, but have been revealed again when it became a museum. They now stand along with the Islamic symbols from the era when it was a mosque. It is a curious mix of Christianity and Islam. It was amazing to see the stone architecture and the mosaics. The figures and gold and symbols that you see in the photos are made out of mosaic squares about 1cm by 1cm each.

 

 

The Grand Bazar:

Ok wow - this is shopping and bargaining like you have never seen it before. An under cover market that stretches blocks and blocks. Stunning stuff and if you can bargain well, it can be really cheap. I'm not too sure how good I was at it. Think I didn't do that well, but maybe better than some. I generally managed to get the price down by about a quarter.

You can so easily get lost in all these stalls and they look so much alike and are so busy! We eventually found our way out up a narrow staircase, through a back alley, over the dirty water being tossed into a gutter by a shop person, through a dark corridor and then out into open air. It's quite and adventure! It's good to come to the market when you are poor though. Otherwise you will certainly leave poor with lots of parcels under your arms! 

 

The Spice Market:

This was another highlight of the trip and I was so tempted to come back with exotic teas - but how can you when you are backpacking? But they smelt SO good! And the food was amazing. We got some small pastries to share among us. Lovely - very sweet. They had baklava and date balls, turkish delight with pistachio nuts and other food items I could only guess at. We were given tastes of a number of things while in the market and came out on rather a sugar high. It's definitely a place I would like to go back to if I have a chance.

The Fish Market:

Istanbul has tons of fishermen on one of its bridges and they seem to supply this small market. The smell - well, you can imagine. We had dinner at a fish restaurant close by that was filled with local people.

We came back in the evening. A really lovely day and lots of new sights seen!

 





Armchair travel (3 weeks to go)

A trip around the world… who could ever have imagined that this would happen? It certainly still feels a little like a dream to me (except that my bank balance suggests that I have purchased a number of tickets to foreign destinations that I know very little about). Imagination says that I will be watching sunsets on beaches, drinking lots of coffee in little boutique towns and walking through forests where mosquitos don’t exist. Reality will probably be that I will be lost (or on the verge of it) for most of this trip.

It’s a little daunting blogging about this trip. But, we always had a saying at work and I’m finding that it’s true of anything big: “How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.”

You will have to excuse all the awkward sentences and late night mumbles before I collapse in bed, because at the end of the day, this is a record for me of a trip of a life time which I want to share with you. I am no professional writer, but I hope that I whet your appetite for travel and exploring and taking a chance that may or may not pan out but will leave you breathless with incredible memories.

I could start this blog in any number of places. But for me, I think the most entertaining are the reactions that I have received from numerous people when I tell them that I’m travelling for a while. “Where?” they ask. And I (with a thrill down my spine) say that I have bought a round the world ticket (yes, such things do exist)… It’s been amazing to me how many people then, with wide eyes, admit that travelling the world is (or was) their dream.

I’ve spoken to so many people from family and friends to the ladies who have assisted me in the Bank and at Postnet, to the people behind the counter at the visa application desks. I have heard so much that I have to share the frequently asked questions…

Is this an “Eat, pray, love” trip?

Well, I have to admit that I have never seen the movie or read the book and this trip was being planned before I knew of its existence. But, I’m not planning on going to India – so maybe it’s an Eat, love trip?

Are you doing it in 80 days?

80 days doesn’t give enough opportunity to explore! This is a fallacy – how can you possibly hope to see the world in only 80 days?

Are you doing this trip alone?

Yes, but meeting up with friends along the way where I can. About every 2 -3 months I will be with people that I know. A huge thanks to the many friends and family that I will be seeing along the way. I don’t think that I could do this without you. If anyone wants to join me in a country along the way, let me know!

Aren’t you scared?

My response to most people would be “A bit, but also really excited”. This is a mild, watered down version of the truth. I think a sense of panic “what have I got myself into now” mingled with the excitement of a 6 year old on Christmas eve hoping to get their first bicycle would probably be a better response.

Wow, you’re so brave going alone. I don’t think I could…

Thanks… but I really don’t see it as bravery (well maybe a bit). Two or three years ago, a friend of mine did a similar trip, with even more time spent in exotic places that can’t speak English. At the time I never thought I would or could do something similar. But it is more possible than you think! (Says me not having left SA yet … maybe you should wait for the end of the blog to decide.)

I have a philosophy that says: just because no one else is around to do it with you, doesn’t mean that you have an excuse not to live your dream. Besides, you always tend to make friends along the way.

Isn’t it a lot of admin?

Um… yes, definitely! Right now I am incredibly envious of all those individuals that have a passport that doesn't need visas! But that said, it certainly is very possible.

What is the best part of planning the trip?

Finding out where to go and what to do there. Getting hold of friends and family overseas. Planning South America with friends.

What is the worst part of planning the trip?

Almost losing my passport and getting all the immunisations needed. And also, having to think of how to keep my backpack safe overseas.  

Can you pack me into your bag?

Well, the round the world ticket allows me 2 cases of 23kg each. I’m planning on using about 18kgs in total… so if you can get your total weight down to 28kgs, sure, come along! (Don’t forget the breathing apparatus for the pressurised planes.) Alternatively, you could get a ticket and join me in a country along the way. It may be more comfortable?

How long do you plan on going for?

Between 9 – 10 months, but plans have a tendency of changing. It will largely depend on how many nights I’m happy to sleep in a 10 person dorm, how many days I mind wearing slops in the shower, whether I’m content with a supper of crackers & jam and how my sign language improves for communication with Non-English persons.

Are you going to work along the way?

We’ll have to see. I would love to, but the visa's don't let me!

How much does all this cost?

Well, I’m not staying in 3 star accommodation here... All I can say is it will depend on where you go and how you want to live while you’re there. Do you want to see the world / live in comfort? Sadly most of us don’t have the option of both. Most websites suggest that you lay out everything you want to pack and decide on the amount of money you will take with you. You halve the packing and double the money. Good advice if you can do it!

When are you leaving? I thought you had left already!

Sigh, admin takes time and a round the world ticket, it seems, will only leave SA about every 2 weeks… So, I’m leaving on the 26^th of April. I’ll be flying to Madrid, Spain where I will almost immediately catch a connecting flight to Istanbul, Turkey. I’ll be coming back to Madrid along the way, so those of you that were about to scold me for missing such a wonderful city such as Madrid can relax.

I have to admit that when I hear of others' plans for overseas travel I almost feel guilty that my trip is so long and is going to so many exotic places. And I’m also pretty sure that everywhere I go I will want to spend longer there.

If anyone has any advice about the places on my itinerary I would luv to hear them! (But please bear in mind that I am on a budget and you don’t need to make me jealous of those wonderous things to do that I plainly can’t afford! So your EUR 100 meal that you had in some exotic castle in Austria is wonderful, but alas my trip would only be 1 month long if I succumbed to such glorious riches.)

Many thanks 

Jan

P.S. if you’re interested, check out my itinerary.